
The transition from southern England to northern France on Eurostar is rapid, no more than 25 minutes or so. We took a daytrip to Lille a few weeks ago, our first since 2020, which was unknowingly made in the last weeks before lockdowns began.
Unlike trips made to the continent when I was younger, the brief suspension of daylight while passing under the sea is insufficient to make it feel as though you have come a long way; while the open spaces of France contrast markedly with the smaller landscapes of Kent, in many ways, the experience is one of continuity. We adjust pretty immediately.
And yet, unnoticed, many things do change, notably, the culture – a phenomenon that has always both fascinated and frustrated me. The crow-flies distance from our home to Lille is a mere 130 miles, but despite the short journey, culturally, it feels like much more. I’m not only talking about the language, though it is always a joy to be able to give my French a work-out, but Lille (unsurprisingly) is utterly French and thus worth getting up at an ungodly hour on a January weekend morning for a spot of flânerie, lunching and shopping.
I get withdrawal symptoms if I can’t do this from time to time. For me, continental city life – or at least the imagining of it – comes as close to lived perfection as I can envisage. And to be frank, there is almost nowhere in the UK that gets near that combination of architecture and cultural sophistication that is available even just 80 minutes from St Pancras.
Lille is much more manageable than Paris for a day trip. I know the city well, having visited many times over the years and have something approaching a routine for such visits – there are several streets and buildings that must form part of the base-touching. We have added to this over the years by, for example, heading to the Rue de Gand for lunch – a street a little outside the centre, which has a reliable choice of estaminets and crêperies, one of which we patronised this time for one of the best galettes I have eaten perhaps ever.
Despite the internationalisation of retail, Lille also retains many independent shops, and even the chains don’t seem as aggressively, homogeneously bland as they do in the U.K. I think the French consumer expects more, so even those shops have to try harder. Here we come to one of those marked differences: just why is it that so many independent shops survive in France, despite the fact that it too has a large out-of-town sector? And those shops seem very well frequented. They offer a far wider range of esoteric goods than one might see in the average British town or city.
I suspect it may concern approaches to things like city planning and business rates – things that have crushed many independent businesses in the U.K. But I think it may also be a matter of attitude: those independent shops and restaurants can only survive because they are patronised – and I can see enough to note that it is not all tourist trade. Not on a cold Saturday in January. And even approaches to planning and tax rates are underpinned by a set of values.
The same thing might be said about the patrons. Unlike in the U.K., the majority of the populace of Lille still seems to think it worth dressing reasonably well for an afternoon in town. This is not to say that everyone is dressed to the nines – but there is little of the general scruffiness that one sees in the streets of towns on this side of the Channel. People make more effort.
Sitting in various restaurants and cafes, we noted groups of young people sheltering from the cold over hot chocolates – but the tarty clothes, fake tans and multiple piercings of much British youth were little in evidence. French kids somehow seem more wholesome; OK, I know that can’t possibly be the whole truth, but it is the impression. And while we’re on the subject of hot chocolate, that arrived as melted real chocolate in a glass cup, with a jug of hot milk – not the over-sweet Cadbury’s powder that is standard fare in the U.K.
I know that it is too easy to see such things in a biased light, but this is nonetheless an impression that repeats on each visit; at what point does it cease being rose-tinted bias and just become the truth? And Lille is hardly an entirely prosperous city, so it cannot all be the product of economic privilege. For all that this may be subjective, it seems to me that France simply has a more sophisticated culture than the U.K. It simply does not tolerate the degree of dumbing down, dilution or outright bastardisation that is commonplace in the U.K. And I’m hardly the first to point this out. People at large in the UK are simply not brought up to expect good things, let alone with concepts such as “good judgement” that might allow them to discriminate more effectively.
One notes the difference, too, in small things such as the attractiveness of shop window displays. I have written about this before, but each return visit only confirms the impression. I can only conclude that that is a response to a culture that has different aesthetic expectations. This year, we added to our reference points with a gallery from where we are in the process of buying a painting that would be considered impossibly avant-garde for anywhere in this country – perhaps outside certain chichi parts of London.
Underlying my fascination with such contrasts is the question of why they arise; after all, these are communities that live a matter of only tens of miles apart, less than the distance between different parts of either country.
The easy answer would be “The Sea” – and it is surely indisputable that the English Channel is responsible for quite a lot of the contrasts between Britain and the continent. Over centuries, different traditions arose on either side of the divide, at times when crossing it was nowhere as easy as it is now.
But even this answer is not a full explanation. It does not explain why it is the British side that so often debases everything it touches or otherwise reserves it only for the elites with the finest breeding or the deepest pockets. Culture is about more than distance. And even the ease of international travel seems to be doing little to erode the differences between England and France. If anything, they seem to be getting wider, as this country plunges further into its Brexit-induced decline.
What really makes the difference is what happens in people’s minds. This is a topic I will return to, but it increasingly seems to me that the key to sustaining a cultural identity is what is sown in people’s minds. In the case of the U.K., the population under 50 years of age has never known a country not thrown open to the bleak functionality of the neo-liberal free market, with its chill commercialisation of almost every aspect of life; the replacement of cultural capital with the bland efficiency of big business, enterprises that have no interest in the warmth of the cultural fabric, but which exist solely to hoover up the maximum amount of consumers’ cash as efficiently and soullessly as possible. And most people now accept and collude with that. Maybe they don’t even know that different is possible.
The French, by comparison, seem to retain a much wider understanding of the meaning of the quality of life; they still understand that the intangibles are important – as experienced in the food and aesthetics witnessed on one random day in January 2026. Things that are not some elite luxury but are just the general daily fabric of a good quality of life. It is no accident that that country is known for these values; what perplexes me more, in this age of high-speed transport and international mobility, is why such values still seem to fail to make the journey a mere 130 miles to the adjacent country, where in some ways, life is as demoralisingly different as it could possibly be.
























